#DIY

Current coil and driver setup, two AC fans on top of the heatsink (right now just laying there) they take their power from the HV input but I think I'll be moving that to the control side so I can run them a while after shutting down HV (to cool the heatsink faster).

And the inside of the power-box (the relay is my addition, as is the other contact on the "mushroom" switch, this way I can be sure that both phase and zero are disconnected when I hit the stop (regardless of which wire happens to be zero this time since it depends on which way you plug the cable in...).

Operation as follows: connect cable and unlock the musroom switch to enable control power, then the on/off buttons on the box (see next post for picture) can be used to control the relay which will connect both phase and zero for the HV side.

Power box closed and the step-down transformer to get 110V (required by the coil electronics, modification for 220V operation would have been rather complex on the HV side)

Today we managed to burn the HV input fuse (straightening some coils in the 110V input wire gave us suddenly massively better coupling and (compared to previous) rather huge arcs, and then the fuse gave in...

I'm thinking of installing a resettable fuse :)

Pics (and video) will come as soon as I get them from the people who did the shooting, I concentrated on the coil.

Picture taken by a friend.

Hieno...

Forgot to mention: I now have more fuses and hope I won't burn all 10 of them within the week.

Next up: make some music http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdrqdW4Miao&feature...

@bergie I'm planning to, but before that I need to 1. get the coil tuned properly 2. convert it for optical modulator link (microcontroller will likely crash from the RF interference if I use RCA cable like it currently does [the kit modulator is based on trusty old 555 timers] also frying Arduinos [and possibly the Mac connected to said Arduino] is not the cheapest of hobbies [should somethign go wrong and high-voltage reach the modulator input cable]).

Actually I'll be doing the optical conversion first because it should ease the tuning (then at least I know the modulator cable is not picking up interference).